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COLONIAL TIMES

The Muster

Trousers: Linen or Wool?

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T O P I C R E V I E W
richfed	Posted - May 17 2005 : 06:43:38 AM After visiting Colonial Williamsburg a couple of weeks ago, I caught this bug ... the main feature of this disease is desiring to be able to convert my longhunter gear & persona into a colonial's look ... IE: purchase trousers, stockings, & shoes. Question: If I can only afford to buy one pair of trousers, which do you folks recommend, linen or wool? I'm leaning toward wool at this point. Any insights?
11 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)
Fitz Williams	Posted - May 31 2005 : 2:45:49 PM quote: So the fustian you get these days for your breeches... is it a heavier 100% cotton with a smooth weave? The fustian, or Virginia cloth, sold by most merchants is a linen/cotton blend, close to half and half, and a plain weave. If has a different feel from either all linen or all cotton. A lot of modern clothiers (Ralph Lauren for instance) have the linen/cotton blend in their lines. But you just can't beat wool.
Wilderness Woman	Posted - May 31 2005 : 2:20:22 PM Excellent! I shall come to the Faire with my pockets stuffed with money and my market basket empty, in preparation for my visit to the linen merchants in Sutler Row. I do l-o-o-o-o-o-ve shopping... no matter which century I am in!
Seamus	Posted - May 31 2005 : 12:49:32 PM WW, There will be ('should be') a merchant at the Johnson Hall Market Fair next weekend who can help you with fustian and might even have some along. I will show you what I have.....
Wilderness Woman	Posted - May 31 2005 : 12:36:37 PM Thanks, Seamus. I found that very interesting, especially the description of how the workers cut the nap of the fabric by hand. I had never heard of that before. It sounds like the name has applied to several different types of fabric through the centuries. So the fustian you get these days for your breeches... is it a heavier 100% cotton with a smooth weave? Sorry, Rich. This isn't helping you with your dilemna, but it is interesting to a seamstress such as myself who works with fabrics. While I cannot attest to its use in breeches, I have fallen in love with pure linen since I made my 18thc real clothes. Except for the fact that it wrinkles when you just look at it, it is wonderful to sew on and to wear... especially in hot weather.
Seamus	Posted - May 30 2005 : 2:39:10 PM WW-- FUSTIAN, a term which includes a variety of heavy woven cotton fabrics, chiefly prepared for mens wear. It embraces plain twilled cloth called jean, and cut fabrics similar to velvet, known as velveteen, moleskin, corduroy, &c. The term was once applied to a coarse cloth made of cotton and flax; now, fustians are usually of cotton and dyed various colors. In the reign of Edward III, the name was given to a woolen fabric. The name is said to be derived from El-Fustat, a suburb of Cairo, where it was first made; and certainly a kind of cloth has long been known under that name. In a petition to parliament, temp. Philip and Mary, fustian of Naples is mentioned. In the 13th and 14th centuries priests robes and womens dresses were made of fustian, but though dresses are still made from some kinds the chief use is for laborers clothes. See: http://91.1911encyclopedia.org/F/FU/FUSTIAN.htm Also: www.mowcop.com/htm/fustian.htm
Wilderness Woman	Posted - May 30 2005 : 12:39:30 PM In my studies, I have seen the word "fustian" a number of times, but I am confused as to what the fiber content is. I assume it is a mix of some sort, like "linsey-woolsie" is a combination of linen and wool? Definition, please?
Seamus	Posted - May 30 2005 : 05:52:23 AM And then there is brain-tanned deer skin. Expensive, yes, but durable and comfortable, too. For winter wear I have brain-tanned elk. In addition to the other qualities, the ever-present smell of woodsmoke is wonderful! The elk, being thicker, is terrific on a windy or cold day. Other than the tail of your shirt (which should be looooong) no other under garment is necessary....as it was "back then." In terms of longevity, these are, by far, the better bargain, though the initial outlay is more. No one can dispute period correctness, either. If you have the skill, it is fun to hand stitch your own,too. It's a great project while sitting in camp or ......ugh....watching TV, and not_that_difficult. I also have fustian, heavy linen and woolen, and use them all when the season and situation is appropriate.
Fitz Williams	Posted - May 29 2005 : 9:44:55 PM I have breeches made of fustian, linen, cotton, and wool, and heavy cotton canvass. The canvass is uncomfortable in any weather, hot in the summer, cold in the winter. Linen is OK, but fustian (Virginia cloth) is better. Cotton is nice, but wool is the best. I select my fabric from Ninety Six District Storehouse, then have it made into breeches. If you order whatever the vendor has, it will probably be much too heavy weight. Not all wool is heavy and the proper weight of wool can be cooler in summer that most other fabrics. I am having a wool gilet made (unlined) with the intention of wearing it in July. And Rich, Ninety Six District Storehouse is located in Abbeville, about 60 miles south of Greenville which would make a nice road trip for you. Or, even better, you can go to Fort Loudoun in September and see them there.
42ndNCO	Posted - May 29 2005 : 09:35:53 AM Yeah, Wool's great. Especially on a 95 -degree day... friends who have purchased and worn blanket weight breeches never seem to have kept them for very long...isn't that right Sarge? I recommend going with linen or fustian-type material for your trews. You'll enjoy the day much better...
SgtMunro	Posted - May 17 2005 : 08:13:06 AM Working-class folks also wore hemp-canvas; for instance sailor 'slops' worn over more precious linen breeches (There are several producers of hemp-canvas fabric, from former Eastern-Bloc countries. Although modern 'duck' canvas is still sutable, and much easier to find in ready-made items of clothing). The types of materials used in breeches was limited only by local supply, and the wearer's pocketbook. The main thing to remember is that you should stick with a 'fly-front', as opposed to 'fall-front' design, since they were of an earlier fashion. Your Most Humble Servant, The Sarge
Kurt	Posted - May 17 2005 : 07:53:21 AM If you are alergic to wool like me, there is no choice. If not, the question is: how rich is the person you are portraying? As a rule of thumb, poor folk wore wool, rich folk wore linen.

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