| T O P I C R E V I E W |
| wayagili |
Posted - April 12 2005 : 10:05:37 AM
Okay, I figured that I want to go with wool (and eventually buckskin) leggings for wearing with my breechclout.
But I also have a pair of rough linen knee breeches, so I was thinking about going with a pair of long gaiters to go with it. I am mainly interested in doing F&I period and just after, so I was thinking about going with pair of military-style half gaiters.
So, here are the questions I have:
Is there any documentation of gaiters having side flaps (I noticed the one's Hawkeye had in LOTM had flaps - not that I would base my effort for historical accuracy on a movie - and I saw a pair at G.G.Goodwin that had three buttons at the ankle, and side flaps. It also mentioned that they were brown.
I've read about painting the canvas black with the buttons all the way up, but have also seen some examples of some that button from the knee down. Would a pair like the ones offered at Goodwin, brown canvas with the three buttons at the ankle and side flaps be okay?
I'm not trying to look military, but want to incorporate some military pieces that someone of the time may have picked up here and there, preferably British but maybe even some French items.
Again, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve |
| 9 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
| Fitz Williams |
Posted - April 12 2005 : 10:43:08 PM
But if you make some, think about this. The buttons cost me .75 each, so 36 buttons is $27. Then there's the material, the thread, the time, the 36 button holes, and $45 starts to look like a pretty good price. Of course the button holes will be machine sewn, but even if you go back and hand stitch them (which I do sometimes) it is much easier to overstitch the machine-sewn holes that to do it from scratch. |
| 42ndNCO |
Posted - April 12 2005 : 9:50:59 PM
I never liked the painted ones, either Fitz. They looked sort of fake to me, even if they were correct.
If you've got the material, Steve, that's half the battle in my opinion. The hand sewing won't be too bad. 13 buttons and button holes for each leg-- that's something you can do while hanging out in front of the TV every night.
Like I said, I altered mine to button from the knee down. I'm not familiar with any documentation about the 3-button ones. You can use either 5/8" pewter or horn buttons-- have seen both used effectively there.
Good Luck! |
| Seamus |
Posted - April 12 2005 : 3:32:33 PM
We use C&D Jarnagin's gaitors in our unit:
http://www.jarnaginco.com/FIcatframe.html
Ours are ordered painted brown or unpainted and walnut-dyed. I would suggest unpainted and dyed, as they are more flexible. The painted ones must be washed and then dried with a couple tennis balls in the dryer to break them down. Otherwise, they are horribly stiff! We also order the buttons at a 1" center, rather than the 1 1/2" center they provide. The cost is very good, too.
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| wayagili |
Posted - April 12 2005 : 2:32:39 PM
[That was the fashion then (a tight calf was also considered 'hot' by the lassies of the period). .
Yeah, I remeber my days of doing Renaissance era activities, and always thrusting the leg out to show off those calves! But, those were tights, and all that frilly lace, and it was a rough period for me, so I'd rather not discuss it...
However, if you are really motivated, dye your canvas before cutting your pattern and stitch any loose edges before dyeing.
[/quote]
I have a few yards of canvas that I had already dyed brown for another project that was just sitting around, so it's been prewashed and should be ready to go! My only concern is doing the buttonholes by hand as I said (you're not the only one with a Cro-magnon temper!) Yep, I can see it now: "Ouch, my finger, again!" CRASH!!! WIfe:"Um, didn't we use to have a lamp by that window?" Me:"What lamp?" "You know, the one that is missing near the broken window that will cost more to replace then just buying what you needed, genius!"
Seriously though, thanks for the advice and info!
Best,
Steve |
| Fitz Williams |
Posted - April 12 2005 : 2:21:48 PM
Just a word of caution. I don't know if your persona is British or French. There are some differences in clothes between what is considered "New France" and what is considered the "Colonies". The fly is constructed somewhat differently, and the buttons will show a bit more. Flying Canoe is "French". Others, like Fort Downing, Barkerstown Sutlers, and Bushwomans will be more "British". Now, all this is assuming there REALLY was a difference between British and French clothes. Some say there was, others disagree. Myself, I am not sure. I have the J.P. Ryan pattern for a waistcoat, and one from La Fleur de Lyse and there are some minor differences. But there will be differences between any two pattern makers, so look at some original pictures of what you want (if you can find some), and place no faith in modern artists ideas of what was correct. |
| wayagili |
Posted - April 12 2005 : 1:50:29 PM
Thanks Fitz! I knew I could count on you!
I agree with you about having the gaiters that button all the way up...I was just being lazy because I didn't want to have to hand stitch all those button holes! (No sewing machine to cheat with!) If I screw them up, I can always order the ones from Flying Canoe. They seem to have pretty decent prices. I also need to get another pair of breeches, and was looking at their French fly breeches for $45, which is not a bad price at all. The linen pair I've been using are not at all correct, since they were made from a pair of old linen pants with the knees redone to closely resemble period breeches (as long as the shirt or frock is covering the modern fly, pockets, belt loops, etc).
BTW- You mentioned Ft. Frederick in an earlier e-mail, are you going to be there?
Best,
Steve |
| 42ndNCO |
Posted - April 12 2005 : 1:32:11 PM
Steve,
I've owned a pair of canvas "Godwin gaiters" for the past 5 years and they're still as sturdy as the day I got them. They're great-- they really save your stockings underneath and you can plow through the heaviest underbrush w/o tearing up your legs.
Fitz is right-- gaiters have to fit snug-- they should almost be too tight when you crouch down. That was the fashion then (a tight calf was also considered 'hot' by the lassies of the period). When you order from Godwin's, they want your leg size-- calf diameter, length, etc. They then custom make them to fit you. Make sure you give yourself enough room underneath for hose or stockings, if you're going to wear such things underneath. Otherwise they'll be too tight.
I had to modify the gaiters by pulling the side seam stitching that went up the leg apart and sewing buttons on. That way they are the more correct military gaiters that units of the period wear. I left the original three buttons at the bottom alone. The brown color happened to be correct for our unit, but those needing another color often paint them to the shade they need. I also tie each with a small black leather buckle garter.
I gave up making gaiters after 2 very bad episodes involving RIT dye, a Maytag washer and a latent Neanderthal temper(another story perhaps). For the money (60.00 now?), you really don't save anything over making them. However, if you are really motivated, dye your canvas before cutting your pattern and stitch any loose edges before dyeing. |
| Fitz Williams |
Posted - April 12 2005 : 12:33:50 PM
Gaiters are supposed to fit very tightly around the leg, and I don't see how those with only three buttons and go on and still be tight. Flying Canoe carries well made gaiters, buttons all the way up, and at a good price. There are 18 buttons on each one, and they can be moved to create a custom fit to your legs. Also, they are a bit cheaper than GGG, and come in a variety of colors. I am not so sure the ones with only three buttons are correct. Might be, though, depending on where they are used. But, IMHO, too many people wear baggy gaiters and just tie them up below the knee.
http://www.flyingcanoetraders.com/ |
| wayagili |
Posted - April 12 2005 : 10:17:23 AM
Oops. I meant long gaiters, not half gaiters. |
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