T O P I C R E V I E W |
SgtMunro |
Posted - October 15 2003 : 3:50:04 PM I figured since "The Muster" is a place for reenactors and their wares, this would be as good as any place for this topic. In another post, I asked for all of us in 'the hobby' to tell our fellow travellers in Mohicanland about our living history personas (and thank you again to all who replied), here I would like you to describe the weapon(s) (both firearm and melee) that your "character" uses, and why (in relation not only to your character's history, but for your own reasons as well). Also, if you would be kind enough to name the supplier/craftsman of your weapon(s), so that those getting into the hobby have some sources to check out. Thank you again for those willing to share their knowledge.
Your Most Humble Servant,
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11 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
Scott Bubar |
Posted - October 21 2003 : 9:38:37 PM Yes, that helps. Thanks Lloyd.
I have no place anywhere in shooting distance of me to fire blackpowder, but I have a strange attraction to the blunderbuss. |
mnchiefs502001 |
Posted - October 21 2003 : 9:20:02 PM Scott,
I forgot to include weight. I have never really weighed it but I can't imagine that it weighs more than 6 or 7 pounds.
Hope that helps.
Lloyd |
mnchiefs502001 |
Posted - October 21 2003 : 9:17:47 PM Scott,
The blunderbuss is the private contract model and is a .69 cal. (14 inch brass barrel.) I use a .66 cal ball with a patch or tow. I have been firing 2 and 3f powder. 2F load is 40 grains and with 3F 20-25 grains. It doesn't seem to matter only that the fowling is worse with 2F. I just go with what is in my horn at the time. Usually 2F since I shoot large bore firelocks. With a ball it shoots a little high at 20 yards (about 2-3 inches but I think that is because of the point of aim using the flared muzzle.) The flared muzzle doesn't really do anything for the spread of shot it just looks cool. I only shoot swan or drop shot since that is more correct. I make it by melting lead in my laddle and dripping it into a tin cup of water. It takes a little work to get the technique but it looks like tiny tear drops. It works great on small game and you don't need much to kill a critter. I have fired buck and ball with it and have made short work of targets on the range.
The fit and finish is excellent and have had many compliments from the others at various events.
Really fun to shoot and handy for Ranger work.
Cheers!
Lloyd |
Scott Bubar |
Posted - October 21 2003 : 07:47:49 AM quote: Originally posted by mnchiefs502001
... I also have a Brass barreled blunderbuss from Loyalist arms and it is also a great firelock. I have shot many a grouse with it. It is a fantastic little gun for the money. ...
Lloyd, do you mind if I ask the guage of your blunderbuss, and how much it weighs?
There was a discrepancy between the description at the site and what they told me via email.
Have you tried shooting ball with it? |
mnchiefs502001 |
Posted - October 20 2003 : 10:14:54 AM Sgt. Munro,
When I am with the British line as a Corporal (British Independent Companies) I have carried a "defarbed" Pedersoli Bess. This is a firelock that I purchased from Cabelas a few years ago. I removed the nose cap and changed out the ram rod pipes for the wood rammer and modified the side plate for a 1st Model. I also changed the lock date and removed the modern barrel stamps. I restamped and engraved the barrel with proper proof/maker markings. I changed out the butt plate with a 1st model and also added proper relief carvings around the lock panel and wrist of the musket. Finished it with a 80/20 mix of Laurel Mtn. walnut/cherry stain and applied a hand rubbed oil finish. This gives it a nice dark walnut color with a hint of burgundy undertones. This project is not all that hard and gives you a "cut down" 1st Model Bess look and gets a lot of compliments at events.
I recently accquired the Long Land Pattern Musket in .77 cal. from Loyalist Arms in Nova Scotia. This is a quality piece and costs less than half of one that would be custom made. A good firelock for the money.
For Ranger work I like my North Star West Officers fusil in .65 cal. It is a really fine piece and well worth the money. I purchase mine from Dixie Gun works with the bayonet, belly box, hawk, and carriage.
For my French Marine Impression, I purchased the 1728 St. Etienne Musket from Discriminating General from Canada. the musket is a good shooter but I had to take the shiny parts and dull them a bit as well as refinish the stock. I little work defarbing this musket and it is a great firelock for a French Impression. Afterall you can't buy parts for $500! They also have the most correct looking Marine Cartridge box that is being mass produced. Some I have seen do not have the burgandy color and the anchor emblem is the proper light grey.
I also have a Brass barreled blunderbuss from Loyalist arms and it is also a great firelock. I have shot many a grouse with it. It is a fantastic little gun for the money.
Pistols - Well I have a black watch pistol from Dixie Gun Works, a set of dragoon pistols from Loyalist Arms, a Queen Ann from Track of the Wolf (purchased about 10 years ago) and recently a custom built Georgian Pistol that I made myself. All my pistols are very fun and accurate with round ball or shot.
My rifle is a .58 cal. and is built on the English fowler frame by Danny Caywood. Caywoods are very fine firearms and are a good value. Taken many deer with this piece.
Lastly I have a North West Trade gun in a 24 bore for the Western Great Lakes Fur trade stuff we do up here in Minnesota. This was built with Track of the Wolf parts by yours truly and is a high quality piece.
As for as my blades and things, I carry a Smiling Fox Forge English Officers Court Sword. (Very Nice and priced at $200 with scabbard.) For my soldier stuff I carry a 1751 pattern that I purchased from The Bradley Company of the Fox.
As for my British Cartridge Box, Haversack and leather I like C&D Jarnigin's stuff. Nice stuff and well made. My knap sack is actually a kit of the artillery goat skin one G. Gedney Godwin offers. Nice brown hair goatskin with single shoulder strap.
Cheers,
Lloyd
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SgtMunro |
Posted - October 20 2003 : 12:52:40 AM As a sergeant in His Majesty's Royal Highland Regiment, one of the weapons I have with me is my halberd (an 8-foot long axe-head polearm), but this is strictly a garrison/provost duty weapon. After our arrival in North America, I found that arming myself with the same Long Land Pattern Musket Bore Firelock (.75 caliber), that my corporal and private soldiers carry, when on the march or on patrol to be more useful in this densely wooded alien landscape. Ammunition was carried in a standard issue 18-round Ordinance Pattern Belt Box, worn with my bayonet on the same belt.
Since His Majesty has also issued us Board of Ordinance copies of traditional Highland Arms, I also carry a baskethilt backsword (which replaced my earlier issued broadsword) and a gunmetal-stocked 'highland pattern' firelock pistol in pistol-bore (.56 caliber). I also carry a personally owned dirk (with my Captain's permission), which was handed down by three generations of Clan Munro men-at-arms.
During my temporary assignment to the Light Infantry of the 42nd, I was issued a Light Infantry Pattern Carbine Bore Firelock (.65 caliber) as a replacement for my Long Land Pattern. Ammunition was carried in a 9-round Light Infantry Pattern Belt Box, and supplimented by a locally procured and issued powder horn and shot bag. Also during this particular campaign, I was issued an Ordinance Pattern Light Infantry Axe to carry in the place of my baskethilt.
For those interested in where you can procure copies of these items, and do not wish to enter into the King's Service, you may contact the following vendors:
-My firelocks, bayonets and powderhorn were made by Phil Cravener, who works out of his home and I can give you his contact information via Private Message.
-My baskethilts, both with Glasgow style guards, were made by Windlass Steelcrafts, and purchased through Tattershall Arms. They can be reached using there name on any search engine.
-My Light Infantry Axe was purchased from JAS Townsend & Sons, and may I suggest the forged version since it is far more authentic in dimension than the investment-cast variant.
-My pistol, or 'dag', was produced by Armi San Marco, and is availible through Dixie Gunworks.
-My Halberd head was made by a private weaponsmith, and I fixed it to a piece of 1.25" ash round.
-My dirk was also made by Windlass, and procured through Museum Replicas Inc.
-My cartridge boxes and shot bag were made by yours truly, following patterns from several sources, including Mark Tully's "The Packet".
Your Most Humble Servant,
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YoungNative |
Posted - October 16 2003 : 10:35:22 PM Hmmmmm
Well.. standard wooden war club, not sure what wood, but i can find out, it's a lighter wood.
German Jaeger rifle .54 cal from dixie gunworks, made by petersoli. I hope to get a trade musket soon.....model b or c. I've also been know, depending on the event to use a brown bess model B musket.
Quiled neck sheath made by sibley, with a standard trade knife.
-mark |
huronwarrior |
Posted - October 16 2003 : 9:47:00 PM Sgt. Munro,
I am very new to reenacting and look forward to the information you are going to provide me for getting in touch with Ghost in the Head in Pittsburgh. Being new to this, I do not have weapons as of yet, but plan to have a musket, knife and tomahawk and whatever other weapons that Ghost in the Head feels I should have to be a Huron warrior fully prepared for battle. I look forward to hearing more about the weapons that Native American reenactors have and use as well as those the French and English use.
Thanks for your help and I look forward to hearing from you when you have the time. |
Grenouille |
Posted - October 15 2003 : 9:44:28 PM I meant to say a 1728 French Army Musket...not Marine...
Jim |
CT•Ranger |
Posted - October 15 2003 : 5:55:58 PM As my French and Indian War Ranger persona is a farmer from Connecticut, he carries a mid-18th century style New England smooth-bore fowler in .58 cal. The barrel is shorter than the average New England fowler at 38 inches, which is easier to handle and better suited for the woods than most longer fowlers. Since he had mustered with the local training band regularly since he was 16 years old, he brought this fowler with him when he went to war, and received a bounty instead of taking the King's arm which was regularly issued to Connecticut soldiers.
As I've said before, when I first started this I was more interested in the Scottish settlers of the 1760-70s mid-Atlantic frontier. At that time I purchased a Early English trade gun from Northstar West, after putting together a Edward Marshall/Christian Springs rifle kit from Jim Chambers. Now when I became more interested in 1740-50s New England, I found that my Early English trade gun could be easily converted into a shortened New England fowler by changing the furniture. So I switched the thimbles, trigger guard, and sideplate, added a lower thimble, reshaped the butt a little, and now have a nice shortened New England fowler.
Since he carries his own fowler, which doesn't accept a bayonet; my persona also carries his father's sword which was picked up off the battlefield in Nova Scotia. It is a French soldier's sword and long enough to keep a bayonet wielding Frenchman, or tomahawk wielding Indian at a comfortable distance in close combat.
I purchased my French Epee du Soldat from G.G.Godwin "the sutler of mount misery" and it has served me well over the years. It was issued to the French soldiers at Louisbourg, Nova Scotia. And since my persona's father was involved in the taking of Louisbourg almost a decade earlier, he could have easily brought one home as a trophy, as I've read of real historical figures doing. Godwin has a number of other good items for sale.
Along with his sword my persona also carries an English style trade knife in his belt which can be used in close combat if needed, or lifting a scalp (the bounty paid for scalps makes it quite tempting, and besides the previous owner doesn't need it anymore!) It is a quite common knife that can be picked up most anywhere.
I don't exactly remember where I purchased this knife from, but they have become so common in recent years, you can find them from a number of sutlers at a relatively cheap price.
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Grenouille |
Posted - October 15 2003 : 5:35:31 PM Sarge, I use a 1728 French Marine Musket that is marked as being built at the St. Etienne Armoury in France. It is approx. .69 calibre. Most French reenactors use a 1763 or 1766 Charleville, because of price constraints -- my particular gun was made by Phil Ackermann and it cost me $1,500 snails or frogs--whichever denomination you prefer. It has served me well and I have never had any problems with it. I originally started out with a 1763 Navy Arms Charleville, but I haven't used it since I got my '28 about 4 yrs. ago. I like the feel and handling of the '28 because it as a bigger gun and more comfortable. I use the '28 for both F & I and Rev War. The French Marines used a varied assortment of weapons including the 1734 Tulle, the '28, and '46. We marines got the older weapons and hand me downs from the regular French army -- and they got all the new stuff. I think my next musket will be a Longland Bess.
Regards, Jim |
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